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The Sonoran desert is a vast 120,000 square arid region of southern Arizona, southeastrern California and stretching down into the State of Sonora, Mexico. This is the desert of enormous saguaro and organpipe cacti popularised by Hollywood western films. As deserts go it is full of life, even riparian in places where the water table is high. Actually, many parts of the Sonoran desert would more fairly be classified as semi-arid, because rainfall can exceed the definitive 10 inches of rain maximum permissible for a desert region. However, the heavy rainfall arrives in monsoonal patterns in summer. So, while rainfall can be heavy it is infrequent and this suits the saguaro and organpipe cacti perfectly. They, draw up huge quantities of water when they can get it (up to a tonne!). For thus reason, they typically sit on hill sides that receive good run off from flash floods. The wildlife is also typical of the tropical and subtropical zones.

The saguaro is a protected cactus. They can live for nearly 200 years and do not sexually mature until around 70 years of age. These silent overseers of the desert have been standing still and dignified observing the daily patterns and later the slaughter and elimination of native communities, such as the Apache from the Sonoran desert. If cacti could talk!

The main population centre in the Sonoran desert in the USA are Phoenix and Tuscon, both imposed on this desert terrain that is scarcely able to support itself, let alone millions of migrant sun-seekers who expect the pleasure of constant sunshine, little rain but constant flowing water. The effect on the environment is not surprising. By re-diverting water from the Colorado rivers through damming (the rape of the West) many former lakes have dried up, river tributaries have died, and ugly metal monsters span rivers and canyons the length and breadth of the American Southwest. The more water that is provided to the growing industrialised blob (as the late Edward Abbey referred to it) of Phoenix, the more people migrate towards the city to make even more water demands. Enough is enough. The American Southwest is a parched desert. It cannot and should not be expected to support the population of the East coast. We are currently witnessing the tragedy of the commons at work in Arizona State. If everyone wants a piece then no one will be able to enjoy the desert. It is a consolation, however, that deserts spread and usually overcome the greatest effort of humankind to stop their growth. Edward Abbey went to the grave happy that despite our greatest efforts, the desert would prevail over human greed and stupidity.

Travelling across the entire length of Arizona state, hugging the border with Mexico, highways 85 and 86 will provide some of the loneliest stretches of highway in the USA. Weaving in and out across the border and stopping in erie border-towns for a cold beer and a chat with the locals in pigeon English is one of the best reasons ot make the trip.

Deep in the desert on the American side natives live a quiet life undisturbed by Uncle Sam and gawking tourists. This is the only part of the USA where I feel like the trespasser that I am (and I am a US citizen, living abroad!).

If you want a free 7000 foot elevated view of the Sonoran plains then visit the Kitt Peak observatory high in the Quinlan mountains. You will see the road you have been travelling on stretch away into the misty blue yonder like a native's arrow for over 50 miles!

Be warned that a trip through the Sonoran desert is lonely and unnerving, especially for a foreigner not familiar with the terrain. Prepare for days without contact with others, except at gas stops and at small dusty roadside motels. If that sounds like your cup of tea then you could not do much better than a sojourn in the Sonoran desert.