|
Video
My spiritual home is the desert. If I have had a past life
it was spent scurrying on the desert floor with my belly close
to Mother Earth searching her out for the chance of a ripe cactus
fruit or a droplet of precious water in the shallow impression
on the face of a granite boulder. I regularly feel the need to
crawl in the red, white or brown dust of desert, with parched
earth beneath my nails, the rays of a merciless sun boring through
to my heart, and nothing but my wits and a water canister for
company. I can go days happily without clean clothes, without
TV, without music, without the internet, without my mobile phone,
without human company and conversation, without hot food, or
without a bed, if that's what it takes to reach a secret outcrop
of granite from which to view a silent forest of Joshua trees
high in the mountains above Death Valley, gently beckoning me
forward with gentle waves of their spiny arms. Most often I accept
these kind invitations, and stand silent among these arboreal
homunculi, long enough for the whiptail lizards and the coyotes
to accept me as part of the backdrop for their ongoing activities
with and within the great and silent desert. I can drive for
two days and two nights just so I can hike across an inaccessible
playa or dry lake bed to prove to myself that the mono-colour
agoraphobic moonscape is no different on the other side.
The Desert is a place of refuge, spiritual awakening, danger
and adventure. Throughout recorded history, the desert has been
seen by a variety of spiritual schools as a land of illusion,
silence, space, possibility and solitude. The desert's profound
expanse is a call to meditation and exploration. Devoid of the
usual landmarks that indicate distance and time, in the desert
perspective shifts constantly. To many the desert is a hard place
to love. To them, the desert is a godforsaken land meant only
for road movies and nature mystics. It's a land of reptiles,
arachnids, cactus and thorn-bush, where humans are unwelcome
and life is tentative. They're right and that's why I love it.
Whether I am staring out into the Nubian desert of North Africa,
bumping across the tracks of the Tanami or Simpson deserts of
Australia , rolling in the desert dust of the Mojave, Great basin
or Colorado plateau of the USA, or wandering among the giant
cacti of the Sonoran desert of Mexico, I am at home.
Why the desert? Why not the sea? Or the mountains? Or the
pretty hills and vales? After years of exploring this question
I am no better off than my fellow desert rat - the late Edward
Abbey. All old cactus Ed could conclude after five months of
desert solitude was; "there's something about the desert".
This is the only matter on which old Ed was ever stuck for words.
There are mountain men, there are men of the sea, and there
are desert rats. I am a desert rat. But why? And why, in precisely
what way, is the desert more alluring, more baffling, more fascinating
than either the mountains or the oceans? The desert says nothing.
Completely passive, acted upon but never acting, the desert lies
there like the bare skeleton of Being, sparse, sparse, austere,
utterly worthless, inviting not love but contemplation. Despite
its clarity and simplicity, however, the desert wears at the
same time, paradoxically, a veil of mystery. Motionless and silent
is evokes in us an elusive hint of something unknown, unknowable,
about to be revealed. Since the desert does not act it seems
to be waiting - but waiting for what? There is something about
the desert that the human sensibility cannot assimilate, or has
not so far been able to assimilate. Even after years of intimate
contact and search this quality of strangeness in the desert
remains undiminished. Transparent and intangible as sunlight,
yet always and everywhere present, it lures a man on and on,
from the red-walled canyons to the smoke-blue ranges beyond,
in a futile but fascinating quest for the great unimaginable
treasure which the desert seems to promise. Once caught by this
golden lure you become a prospector for life, condemned, doomed,
exalted.
From Desert Solitaire by Edward Abbey
Until I discovered the works of Edward Abbey I was totally
unaware that there were other desert lovers out there craving
the red dust of parched wasteland and longing to feel the sandy
cargo of the arid winds that rage between 15 and 30 degrees north
and south of the equator beautiful belts of desert expanse.
Since stumbling across the writing of Mr. Abbey, I have since
explored the writings of other desert lovers who have confirmed
for me that the desert provides a context for adventure, romance,
spiritual awakening, and reflection for countless others. And
what is more, I discovered that I am not alone in getting my
kicks from scraping through the desert landscape searching out
the tracks of desert denizens and marvelling at the minutia of
desert geology. The desert is deadly serious but its also fabulous
fun.
In the vast openness of the desert, the mind is uncluttered,
free from the infernal racket of modernity. Things stand still.
Life and death are clearly profiled on the surrounding terrain
and the temporary nature of everything becomes clear.
For thousands of years shamanic cultures and major world religions
have used the desert as an indispensable part of their spiritual
teachings. Jesus Christ spent forty days in the wilderness undergoing
temptation by the devil before returning to proclaim his message
of repentance and salvation.
From The Gospel of Mathew
Jesus was lead by the spirit into the desert to be tempted
by the Devil. After forty days and forty nights he was very hungry.
The tempter appeared to him and said, "If you are the Son
of God, magically change these stones into loaves of bread".
Jesus replied "the scriptures teaches 'man shall not live
by bread alone, but by every word from the mouth of God'.
Then the Devil took him to a holy city and placed him on
a high pinnacle. "If you are the Son of God," he said,
"then throw yourself off. For scriptures says 'He will charge
his angels with protecting you and they will bear you up in case
you should dash your foot against a stone.'" Jesus replied
"Yes that is true, but scriptures also says 'You should
not tempt the Lord your God'.
After this the Devil took him to a high mountain from which
could be seen the magnificence of all the kingdoms of the world.
"I will give you all of this," he said "if you
fall down and worship me." Jesus replied "Away with
you Satan! Scripture says 'You shall worship the Lord your God
and serve only Him.'"
Then the Devil left Jesus alone and angels came to him
and took care of him.
Jesus was not alone in using the desert as a spiritual retreat.
Mahomet, during the month of Ramadan, each year withdrew himself
from the world to the cave of Hera. St. Catherine of Siena spent
three years in seclusion in her little room in the Via Benicasa
during which she underwent a series of mystical experiences before
entering upon an active life of teaching and preaching. To this
day pilgrims and soul searchers head to the solitude of desert
for prayer and reflection.
Perhaps the best known of the desert traditions is the native
American vision quest. In its simplest form the vision quest
is used as a means of resolving struggles or making transitions
between life's stages. The vision quester spends days and nights
alone in the desert sitting in a circle in the sand waiting for
visions.
In the old days, when a man went out to get visions
to the wilderness, or a high place, a desert, somewhere all alone
well then, in the old days he didn't know if he would ever
come back again. He found that place and made a circle in the
sand, then he sat in the circle and waited for visions. Days
and nights with no food and just a blanket now after some
time the vision comes. He smokes the sacred tobacco and prays
and he is singing all his heart to the Great Spirit, saying "Give
me a vision". He gets very scared out there. But his medicine
protects him until the vision comes.
Rolling Thunder
Every desert traveller must confront their own mortality on
even the briefest of trips. The desert is the closest thing to
outer space here on earth mystical experiences are inevitable.
Sensing the infinite the desert traveller must suspend all self-deception
regarding greatness. No human achievement can impress the desert.
All are equal in its eyes.
If you want to experience the desert you need to give it time.
There is nothing to hurry for in the desert. It has always waited.
It will wait for you. When it is ready the desert will speak
the truth quietly and clearly.
Do not jump into your automobile next June and head out
to the canyon country hoping to see [the desert]. In the first
place you cannot see anything from a car; you've got to get out
of the goddamned contraption and walk, better yet crawl, on hands
and knees, over the sandstone and through the thornbush and cactus.
When traces of blood begin to mark your trail you'll see something,
maybe. Probably not.
From Desert Solitaire by Edward Abbey.
|